Thursday, April 11, 2013

2/12/2013 - Rio de Janeiro Beach Sites: Written by guest blogger JT Giesbrecht


Footvolley player
Rio had no shortage of gorgeous people and hot bodies.  Many Brasilians had light eyes, long eyelashes, and a genuine smile.  This made people watching extra special on the beach.  We broke our beach experience seal with a visit to Copacabana beach.  It was here that I first saw footvolley being played by some seriously toned athletes.  It is essentially volleyball with a soccer ball and you cannot use your hands to send the ball over the net.  The courts were occupied by teams of two and these guys gracefully covered a large area of sand, while making sure to look extra ‘hot’ at every step for our viewing pleasure. 

The amount of flesh that is shown or highlighted with the skimpy swimsuits was tantalizing to our senses as well.  The men have no problem wearing bikini style speedos or square leg swimmers.  In fact, you could spot the handful of tourists by observing who had on long board shorts......they should really be called ‘boring shorts’.  From our experience, the men at the straight beach showed just as much skin as the men at the gay beach.   The women typically sported tiny bikini tops and Brasilian cut bottoms, which essentially mean that the majority of their ass cheeks are exposed to the sand, sun, and prying eyes of all around.

Brasilian cut bikini
Even the children are running around with semi-wedgies while they frolic with their friends.  We appreciated that the culture supports people of any size and shape in wearing these Brasilian ‘beach uniforms’.  More power to those who don’t use a t-shirt to cover-up imperfect bodies.  Eventually, I caved and purchased a Brasilian bikini - you know what they say, “when in Brasil”!

Another mentionable aspect of beach life in Rio and other parts of Brasil are the beach vendors.  These include men carrying around rods or umbrellas weighed down by every color of bikini you could desire.  Around their neck you will find a big mirror and credit card machine.  Once they decide to zone in on their prey (ie...tourists!) they utilize the little legs on the rod so they can set down their store-front on the beach allowing you to go shopping without having to move.  Also, there are vendors peddling sunglasses at every turn, and Chalu mastered getting pair after pair for $5 USD vs the $10-$15 asking price.  Of course, there were tons of beer vendors and even some vendors with small charcoal grills, which were used to grill up skewers right there on the beach.  The funniest vendors were the ones posing to sell any of the above mentioned items but who were using it as a front for a drug business.  Even though we lacked Portuguese skills, we did master saying “não”, which is NO.  

Bikini anyone??
In order to take in all that the Rio beaches had to offer, you must be prepared to be surrounded by plenty of strangers in extreme close proximity.  Once you arrive at the beach a salesman will quickly find you and offer to bring you an umbrella and chairs to rent.  At roughly $4 per person per day, it’s an enticing deal.  The added perk is the fact that they give you a slip of paper with what you rented checked off and then offer to bring you delicious drinks.  Even in this crowded sardine packed environment they trust you will bring them the slip of paper before you leave and pay for what you consumed.  Yet another reason we adored the hospitality of the Carioca people.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

2/10/2013 - Rio de Janeiro Block Party Adventures: Written by guest Blogger JT Giesbrecht


The Maasdam ship and it’s other occupants finally got rid of us troublemakers in Rio de Janeiro, Brasil.  We arrived in this gorgeous city the Sunday of the Carnaval celebration and knew at once that we needed to take in the lively scene to its fullest.  As our cab driver took us to our place we caught glimpses of magnificent floats lining the streets near the Sambadrome and realized we were in for an epic treat.  Our apartment for the next 10 days was located just blocks from the beach in the neighborhood of the world famous Copacabana Beach.  

Pretty angel
According to my lonely planet travel guide, there are many free block/street parties to attend throughout Carnaval.  We made it our mission to locate them, attempt to fit in, and stealth-fully pack away copies of our passports and money while in route.  The first block party we attended was in Copacabana Beach area and it consisted of hundreds of mainly local people dancing, dressed in costumes, drinking like crazy, and occasionally arriving in drag.  Come to find out, many straight men love wearing tight dresses and wigs at this time of year.  

As we stood on the outside of the block party taking in the sites, we all spotted a pretty male angel.  He wore contacts that were the shape and colors of Brasil,  a little white speedo, and gorgeous wings.  He was accompanied by his forgettable boyfriend and a very tall gregarious man who sported an afro wig.  They took us into their group like we were long time friends and started giving Jesus recommendations for the best parties the next day.  By this time our drinks were gone (shocking) and another group of locals offered us mango puree and some of their smirnoff vodka from the large bottle for free.  We even accepted their ice and threw caution to the wind.

I'm 19!
As this party was winding down, we decided to walk down the beach boardwalk and find  more action.  To our surprise, some young men who were dressed as ‘fairies’, decided they needed to gain our attention.  It was during this friendly exchange with the ‘fairy cousins’ that we were introduced to the extreme assertive nature of the Brasilian men-folk.  One of the 19 year old’s mom was near them saying to us, “Oh come on, you’re at Carnaval.  Give him a kiss.”  Their version of kissing should really be called ‘face rape’ or ‘I will eat your face’.  Enough said about that subject.

At another block party in Ipanema Beach we witnessed some incredibly wasted party-goers who decided it would be fun to hump all approaching vehicles.  After seeing how wild they drive in Brasil, this form of entertainment is a tad on the dangerous side if you ask me.  In fact, three people jumped onto the back of a garbage truck as it drove by and two of them fell onto the ground about 10 feet later.  They dusted themselves off and joined the party looking for their next ‘vehicle’ victim.

Love me, says the tranny
We be SO pink
At one point, we heard a drum circle pulsating samba music with an African beat.  We encouraged Chalu to do her ever-famous African dance in the middle of circle.  She boldly stepped into their game and proceeded to go crazy while they stared at her with an odd respect and a look of bewilderment.  It was one of the most priceless moments of the trip. 

We also observed a DRUNK mid 40’s aged woman who decided she should gyrate and grind on every man in her wake.  Well, she did just that while a full circle of locals engulfed her as she preyed on any man she could get her hands on.  She fell down with some force while trying to mount a man who had also fallen.....the drunk just keep on going, I tell you.  We rounded out our block party experience in a human sardine can and witnessed the oldest but classiest tranny ever.  She had on a mesh body suit and it showed off her fake tits splendidly.  Lastly, I learned my lesson the hard way. DO NOT admit you're American if you want to keep on your hot pink ‘lady ga-ga wig’, as the Brasilians called it, or your dignity.

Saturday, March 30, 2013

2/9/2013 - Ilhabela, Brasil Adventures: Written by guest Blogger TracyGiesbrecht

Our final port destination on the cruise was Ilhabela island, which is about 210 miles southwest of Rio de Janeiro.  The island is absolutely gorgeous and at first blush it reminded me of ‘the Hamptons’ of Brasil.  Gorgeous hills lined with think lush jungle terrain, an ample supply of higher end tourist stores in the town center, and expensive boats were just a handful of things we spotted rather quickly.  It was also bustling with other Brasilian tourists enjoying a weekend get-away in paradise.

Stinky Jack Sparrow
We were greeted by a Jack Sparrow look-a-like in the town center.  For a small donation  he pretended to shoot you, cut you, and posed with you for pictures.  In fact, he was so authentic that his silky shirt was smothered against his back with sweat, not to mention, his body odor was out of control. 

One has two activity options while in Ilhebela.  Hire a tour group to escort you into the jungle with a heavy duty 4 wheel drive or explore the beaches at your pace.  We chose the latter.  While exploring the beaches we stopped at several beach bars to assess the menu.  The price of the local drink of Brasil, caipirinha, is a good gauge for the overall cost of the restaurant.  Let’s just say, Ilhebela isn’t cheap, it was ‘expensive’ or ‘even more expensive’.  
Expensive as shit

During our restaurant window shopping we ran into Basil and Dan at a dive beach bar.  Dan quickly offered us the rest of his big beer for free, which I graciously accepted without hesitation.  He admitted that the partial beer he drank had him feeling pretty buzzed.  He was drying off from his swim and decided that wearing his wet speedo was unacceptable.  He proceeded to change into a dry speedo right in front of us while barely covering up with a towel.  Ummm, we saw enough of Dan’s 86 year old goodies in 20 seconds to scar us for life.  But what the hell, you only live once.

Monday, March 25, 2013

2/5/2013 - Maceió, Brasil Adventures: Written by guest Blogger JT Giesbrecht


I distinctly remember hearing the following statement over the intercom of the ship the morning we docked in Maceió, “We have been advised by the Brasilian government that you shouldn’t eat any food from the street vendors.  Also, please do not swim in the ocean as the water is contaminated.”  Hmm, okay.  So, that leaves us with taking our chances with the food and admiring the hot Brasilians with very little clothing at the beach from our perch on the shore.

On our way to follow these basic marching orders we were stopped every 30 seconds by locals who wanted to sell us something or anything.  They typically approached Chalu first since she obviously looked the most Brasilian of our group, which meant she ‘must’ speak Portuguese.  Fairly quickly, she figured out that you simply needed to say, “Fala Ingles??” (speak English?) in order for them to flee the scene.  It actually turned into a comical spectacle as we proceeded down the boardwalk discouraging one peddler after another. 

We came across an adorable older looking lime green VW van that had been turned into a mobile drink trailer, which I learned at the end of our trip were still produced in Brasil up until two years ago because of limited safety requirements.  The biggest draw for us was the mere fact that the lady running the trailer yelled to us in English.....we hadn’t heard English on land for days!  She showed us this extensive menu of caipivodka with all fresh fruits and just as we were salivating she mentioned that she only knew how to make 2 of the drinks.  We each ordered a muddled tangerine and strawberry caipivodka.  After 2 glorious sips, Chalu had a terrified look on her face and burst out, “Oh no! We just drank their ice!  Oh well, I guess it’s too late.”  And that was that.

Our next stop was a beach cafe to use their free internet, little did we know they would charge us for listening to the DJ they had on site once we tabbed out.  Upon our arrival, an adorable 10 year old girl approached me with a priceless smile and gracefully forced one of her many hats on my head.  She slyly pulled out a mirror and encouraged me to see how wonderful I looked.  Instead of buying the hat I threw her two bucks and asked for a picture with her.
 
At this point we decided to order food and assumed that the dish we ordered appeared to be beef and cheese empanadas according to our Portuguese translation.  To our surprise, we were given fried fish.  However, the beach view of half naked bodies from our table took our minds off the little mix-up. 

Once we arrived back on the boat we were excited to find out it was Latin dance night up in the Crow’s Nest.  We were pleasantly surprised to find more than 1 person in the bar for once and the ‘mystery couple’ had also made an appearance.  The woman left shortly after we arrived which left Frederico to fend for himself.  He proceeded to take turns dancing with all of the ladies in a variety of dance styles.  Let’s just say that he owned the dance floor.  Chalu found out that he was originally from Mexico and was living in the south of France teaching dance.  So this explained all of his fancy outfits and precise moves.  

However, this didn’t answer the other burning questions surrounding the couple.......stay tuned for more.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

2/3/2013 - Recife, Brasil Adventures: Written by guest Blogger Tracy Giesbrecht


Recife was one of the least memorable ports of our cruise.  In fact, I had to review the pictures from this city just to remember what kind of trouble we encountered.  As I research it a bit further it’s now dawning on me that we missed seeing the majority of Recife according to wikitravel.  Since internet cost us around $.50 a minute while on board the ship we relied on the travel guide, Daniel, to give us tips for sightseeing in most ports.  However, there were many times when we arrived in the gangway (exit ramp on the ship) too late to find him or he was swarmed by older ‘clams’ who were very upset that they couldn’t understand what he was pointing at on his simple cruise maps.  

Jackfruit vendor
We were shuttled into the Old Recife part of the city and decided to take in a couple of tourist attractions by hoofing it the old fashioned way.  On our way to the sites we encountered a mix of urban living and the ‘anything is for sale’ attitude of the Brasilian people.  There was a friendly local who was cutting up jackfruits from the back of his cart.  It was such a large unique looking fruit that we were immediately drawn to him.  He was missing a few teeth, had extremely dirty hands and was using a small machete to elegantly dismantle the jackfruits.  We tried our best to ask him what kind of fruit he was selling and he eagerly handed us pieces of the fruit to taste.  He asked where we were from and proceeded to make hilarious ‘shooting a gun in the air’ hand gestures once he understood we lived in Texas, Estados Unidos.  We laughed out loud from nervous embarrassment and tried to tip him for his fruit tasting which he discouraged ever so politely. 


Convento Franciscano
Shortly thereafter we arrived at the Convento Franciscano de Santo Antônio which also houses a museum of sacred art.  We agreed the $2 admission fee per person was well worth it especially since we would have access to a bathroom.  (Of course we hadn’t learned our Brasilian lesson that this only meant access to a toilet.  No toilet paper or soap.)  The convent was built in 1588 and boasts beautiful gold engravings and portuguese-tiles throughout.  While trying to capture the beauty with pictures we were nicely scolded to quit using flash as it will create a break in the chemical bonds, which produces deterioration.  Oops!  Our next stop was Casa de Cultura which was once the city prison and has been turned into an assortment of regional arts and crafts housed in each cell.

Sala de Internet
Lastly, how could any port destination be complete without the access of free or cheap internet?  Our typical task turned into an hour excursion and allowed us to see the immense amount of goods for sale on any given street in Recife.  Jesus must have asked 10 people where we could find the closest Sala de Internet (internet cafe) and we were given a variety of answers.  Turns out that Brasilians love to stop and try to help you but they notoriously point you in the wrong direction.  Finally, we stumbled into a sala de internet and were told to go up a tiny spiral staircase.  The ceiling on the second floor was no higher than 7 feet and the equipment was equally unimpressive.  There was no wifi available so we proceeded to plug away on these old machines during our 30 minutes of paid internet access.  At one point the entire room was full and as I turned around to assess the scene I saw that every single computer was logged into FaceBook.  

Moral of the story:  It is truly amazing that you can travel to a multitude of destinations to connect with the local people while telling yourself that staying off the internet grid is in your best interest.  Yet, the connections you make in person will follow you for potentially years to come once you solidify these new connections online.

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

2/1/2013 - Finally entering Belem, Brasil and the Mystery Couple: Written by guest Blogger Tracy Giesbrecht


We were so excited to finally enter Brasilian waters which meant we were only ten days away from Rio and Carnaval!  Our ship’s travel advisor, Daniel, had encouraged us all to peruse this large authentic Brasilian market during our short stay in Belem.  All we had to do was get a ride on a tender from our ship and then take a free shuttle from the port into Belem which was 45 minutes away.  

Port area
Let’s just say that nothing went according to plan.  Our ship couldn’t use our own tenders, thanks to the Brasilian government, and the Brasilians didn’t supply enough tenders for our passenger requirements.  This put us hours behind schedule and by the time we arrived at the port we only had 2.5 hours before we had to be back on the Mother Ship.  This left us no time to wait for the shuttle into Belem.  

you tell me what that is
These set-backs actually turned into a positive experience for our group as we decided to simply explore the port area.  We entered the ‘very local market’ which had more underwear for any size person than I’ve seen in all Victoria Secrets combined.  A bit deeper into the market we saw raw cuts of beef, chicken, fish and numerous unidentified animals.  Many of the cuts of meat were hanging on a hook out in the open with their tendons and cartilage in tact.  Our next stop was a local grocery store to buy champagne for our upcoming Sunday Funday on the boat.  This leg of the trip took longer than expected since this was our first experience with ‘reals’, Brasilian money (pron.: /reɪˈɑːl/) and trying to communicate with very little understanding of the Portuguese language.  

cerveja
We rounded out our short stay by drinking large ‘cervejas’ for $1.50 each, trying to obtain intermittent free internet and using what would become the norm for Brasilian bathrooms.  The typical bathroom entails a door that is very difficult to lock if it locks at all, no toilet paper and lights which turn off automatically 5 seconds after you have sat on the toilet.  But this can all be forgotten when a food vendor knocks on your door and hands you a baby roll of toilet paper in a dirty plastic bag.  Thus began our experience with the generous and kind people of Brasil. 

Back on the ship our curiosity was piqued by a 'mystery couple' who sat near us almost every night for dinner.  We guessed the woman was in her late 50's to early 60's and the gentleman was probably early 50's.  The mystery was surrounding their relationship status and why they were on the boat together.  It was perpetuated by his never-ending wardrobe of sequenced vests, flashy shoes and shark skin suits.  Did he like women? Was she paying his way?  Did that mean he had to sleep with her?

Stay tuned to find out what we know about the mystery..............

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

1/30/2013 - Devil's Island, French Guiana Adventures: Written by guest Blogger Tracy Giesbrecht

View of Devil's Island from Royale

The first time I ever heard of Devil’s Island, French Guiana, was when I was at the travel clinic in Austin prior to our trip.  We were told we needed the yellow fever shot prior to entering Brasil due to our itinerary of cruise destinations.  The nurse at the clinic was kind enough to give me a print out of each island we would encounter which included a color coding to help us identify disease laden areas.  Needless to say, Devil’s Island was grayed out signifying that there was high prevalence of yellow fever and malaria and she cautioned that we should wear 35% deet mosquito spray while visiting the island.  Oh goody!

Prison cell
Our ship’s travel guide, Daniel, gave us the history of the political prisoners they once held near the shark infested waters and assured us we would only need 1.5 hours to see the whole island.  However, we took double the time to traipse through historic ruins, old prisons, a lagoon area, and the gift shop on a mission to find monkeys.  It seemed that every passenger we passed had just seen a group of monkeys who were very friendly and willing to pose for pictures as long as you gave them a little food.  As luck would have it, we saw no such thing during the first half of our trek.  

Next, we encountered a group of French speaking young people who were cleaning up areas of the island while dressed in camouflage outfits.  Besides the woman at the gift shop/refreshment stand these teenagers were the only other people who came to the island during the day.  Some of the young men were sporting fitted camouflage shorts and we couldn’t resist taking pictures of them as we crossed their path.

French clean-up crew
At this point Chalu and I decided to explore the east side of the island before heading back to the ship and Jesus went back into the west part of the island on his quest for monkey sitings.  We agreed that we would meet back on the ship and knew the last tender, the small boat which would take us to the ship, was leaving at 4:30pm.  We heard there was a lagoon near our path and continued on until we finally found the serene body of water.  It was just Chalu, myself, an agouti and a cock.  Suddenly, some of the young French men appeared near us and we started to get a tad worried.  What if they were naughty kids in a Guiana juvie program who were sent here by boat everyday to do their community service?  Chalu tried her best to communicate with them but to no avail.  We slowly got up and made our way out of the lagoon area and could hear one of the French boys yell, “Facebook???”.  Whew, all they wanted was to be our online friends. 

Finally, a monkey!
At 4:10pm we were in our stateroom on the ship and I said to Chalu, “I hope Jesus is okay.”  Not more than 15 seconds later our phone rings and we are asked by security if Jesus is in the room.  By 4:20pm the captain says over the intercom, “We are waiting on 2 more passengers before we can leave.  I really wouldn’t want to be stuck on Devil’s Island!”.  The captain is unbelievable.  You aren’t even considered late until 4:30pm.  Later we found out that Jesus was waiting on the tender to arrive to take him and other passengers back to the boat.  Crisis averted and he was able to see some freaking monkeys! 

Monday, March 18, 2013

1/28/2013 - Tobago Adventures: Written by guest Blogger JT Giesbrecht


Tobago is the smaller of the two main islands that make up the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago.  It is located in the southern Caribbean, northeast of the island of Trinidad and southeast of Grenada.  We were told that Pigeon Point Beach was must see since it’s beauty hasn’t been destroyed by corporate greed.  We negotiated with a cab driver to take to this beach to see what all the fuss was about.  

Mr Bicep and Limbo
The moment we stepped out of the cab we were fresh meat for all the snorkeling and ocean excursion companies in the area.  Each company has a smooth talker who strikes up a conversation with you about what they have to offer and how you need to quickly make a decision since ‘their boat was about to leave’. We decided to stay on the beach for a while and the smooth talkers approached us one after another.  One of the smooth talkers used to be a body builder and we convinced him (with very little effort) to show us his biceps and then to do the limbo dance for us under Chalu’s beach wrap.  After hooting and hollering his efforts we sent him on his way empty handed.  

Drian, the cricket player
One of the smooth talkers from earlier in the day, Barlin, found us at a local beach restaurant and wanted us to meet one of his fellow excursion business associates, Drian.  They told us they each had several boats and that we could have a private tour of the lagoon or a snorkeling excursion.  We thought this meant the trip was ‘free’, but soon found out they would need us to pay $40 to cover the cost of gas.  When we told them that was crazy expensive they asked us to walk down the beach with them towards their boats.  I whispered to Chalu that we may be inviting trouble if we obliged their offer.  She told me that she would make it clear that they better not try anything funny.  And she sure did.  “So, I want you know that I know taekwondo so you better not try anything funny.”  Drian quickly replied, “Well I know nigger-rate!”.  We all erupted with laughter and felt more at ease with their offer to show us around the beach area.

Barlin's crew
It turns out that Drian had a very interesting story.  He lived in England for years and played cricket professionally until he had an injury which caused him to move back to Tobago.  He seemed to be effortlessly running his excursion company as a distraction while he was trying to get strong enough to play cricket once again.  Barlin had lived on the island his whole life and seemed more content to simply run his excursion company while simultaneously flirting with the tourists.  His crew seemed to really respect him and were joyfully repainting one of his boats as we approached the end of our tour.

Overall, the island was full of happy people who just want to make a simple living off the tourists who are looking for untouched natural beauty.

Sunday, March 17, 2013

3/11/2013 - I feel in love in a Hopeless place - Chalu Harden


 I decided since I was so behind on my blog that I would start doing more recent events and let Tracy continue to catch up on our February 2013 adventures. 

Last week I visited Rocinha favela, which is the largest of the more than 700 slums in Rio De Janeiro. The unplanned housing expands the height and width of a large hill bordering, Barria de Trujica, one of the largest urban national parks in the world. The dilapidated structure is made of brick, tiles, stones and a plethora of recycles materials with no noticeable rhyme or reason. 

At the beginning of the tour the guide pointed out the government water plant, hospital and post office that have been recently added since the Brazilian government seized the community from the ruling drug lord, who was reported to be only twenty-eight years of age. Along with the cooperative between the favela community and police, came improved waste removal, security and a promised cable car. The cable car will allow movement throughout the slum, while avoiding the narrow passageways, uneven and treacherously step covered with trash, the constant tickle of water and the occasional dog feces along the path.

A walk through the favela engages all senses.  As I passed hair salons, tiny eateries, mom and pop stores that provided everything from toilet paper to pet supplies, my feet slipped and splashed along the wet uneven cobbles, while I grasped walls to remain safely in motion. The wafting scent of sewage mixed with passion fruit flavored sweet breads baking in one of the many small padaria filled my nose. Throughout the favela my ears were treated to montage of Rihanna's We fell in Love in a Hopeless Place, Brazilian Telenovelas, barefoot children laughing while playing and the constant drum of unrecognizable Portuguese words into cell phones and along store counters. The sights were amazing, with a panoramic view of countless colorful, tiny, non-symmetric apartments and store fronts leading to a stunning beach framed by million dollar high-rise apartments and enormous natural rock formations. In Brazil, favelas are often close to affluent area to help supply a constant stream of maids, nannies, cooks, gardeners and construction workers.

Because Brazilians are such a fascinating mix of colors, shapes, sizes and appearances, I often get mistaken as a Brasileira myself. And as always, I find that the most interesting aspect of the favela are the adaptable, vibrant and hopeful people. Women sit in doorways breast feeding babies, while simultaneously taking in the day’s gossip and tending to a stove full of beans and rice. Countless shirtless men with irresistible tanned worker physiques pass by with wheel barrows full of raw materials in the collective quest to repair, enhance and expand the sprawling favela. It is, however, the children that are most breath-taking. All seem so joyful and unaware of their sometime filthy surroundings. With a budding entrepreneurial spirit, the kids of the favela sell art work, dance for tips (quick video of dancing) and learn how to say “Money” to gringos at the age of two. As we passed by a woman with a baby that had curly blonde locks and blue eyes, she laughs and shouts to the Swedish guy on the tour, “seu filho”, meaning your son in Portuguese.

At first glance you wander how and why anyone would live in the slums. The obvious comes to mind; the people are too poor to do better. However, I soon found that this explanation was too simplistic. Of course there are many who are stuck in the Favela hoping for a better life. But, more often, I believe it is the cup of sugar or toilet paper from a neighbor. The always available help to maneuver a new appliance to your fourth story apartment.  The forever open front and back door that allows you to yell at will to your three surrounding neighbors. I believe the overwhelming sense of community and collective struggle is the glue that holds this colleague of dilapidated buildings, shops and hopes together. 

2/6/2013 - Guest blog for Vitoria Brazil - written by JT Giesbrecht


At first blush Vitoria looks like all of the other Brazilian ports we entered.  However, we did two things differently this time and it completely changed our perspective.  We joined Phil and Bonnie for a 3 plus hour taxi tour and started to understand the power of the Brazilian caipirinha.

Phil takes great pride in setting up taxi excursions by utilizing firm finger pointing at a map and decades of getting exactly what he wants for the right price.  All the while speaking English louder and louder for the Brazilians to understand.  Once Phil acquired Danielo's service we proceeded to cram our 6 bodies into a tiny cab. 

Our first stop was Metropolitana Cathedral in the center of town.  It was brightly lit by the sunlight transferring its rays through magnificent stained glass windows.  Our next stop to Palacio Anchieta was quite uneventful and only a block away, however, Phil insisted in his impeccable English that we have Danielo drive us there.  Next, we were taken to the ruins which must have been in horrible condition as they were closed for remodeling.

Penha Convent is a convent located in Vila Velha and its just on the other side of the second highest bridge in Brazil.  Other ship mates who took "official quadruple the price excursions" were told it was a "1" on the scale of terrain one must tackle to get to the top of the convent.  Let me assure you that it should have been given a 4 of 5 rating and we even had to take a breather mid-way to the top, not to mention, carefully watch each step due to the uneven stairs.  After we took in the beauty and scenic landscape around us we crossed paths with Ava, a fellow ship traveler.  She has what appears to be serious Parkinson's disease and looks to be in her late 80's.  she was determined to climb the remainder of the way to the top with nothing more than the stair railing.  We were all moved at her determination and passion for life in spite of the obstacles she faces.
Our final stop was to a chocolate factory and the highlight occurred when Phil decided it was completely acceptable to intently stare at Sharon's breasts while we were having our picture taken.

Once we parted ways with Bonnie and Phil we had 2 hours to explore the rest of Vitoria on foot.   
While deciding where to go we met an Israeli man in a drugstore who spoke broken English.  He told us not to go past a particular street because it's dangerous but then he decided to take us down that very same street and dump us off at a hole in the wall sidewalk bar.  We were greeted by the owner with big beers to share, our first real caipirinha, and free fried pork skin.  The pork skin was so sinfully delicious that we just had to place an order for more.  In the meantime, a local non-English speaking proceeded to chat it up with Jesus and in a matter of 4 minutes he had given us his email, phone number, and address.  In return I told him numerous times how we were going to "make love to his ass" but used more colorful verbiage.  He just grinned in delight.  He sent us on our way with a taste of his disgusting shot and warned us never to mix beer and caipirinhas.

By this time we agreed it was time to go back to the boat since we had learned never to be late (which includes being 15 minutes early in their book).  On our way we ran into some young crew members who told us the captain extended our time on land by 3 hours.  Of course we chose to do what any self-respecting traveler would do.....drink more caipirinhas and beers while hamming on the locals.  This is where I met a 90 year old local named Paul who spoke fairly good English which he had picked up from years of working on ships.  He gladly shared his grey gun powder sniffing agent with us and we blindly followed his lead. 
At this point we stumbled our way back to the boat and did our best to look 'normal' for our set 8pm dinner party. 

The evening was topped off by enjoying a Filipino show in the large showroom.  We thoroughly enjoyed watching many of the Filipino crew members share their culture and talents with the audience.  In fact, our drink server from the dinner hall was dressed as a woman and he looked so tickled to share this side of himself with the guests.

In closing, there were 3 life lessons taught to us during our stay in Vitoria:

1.  Someone is always worse off than you but it doesn't they can't live life to the fullest.  Remember this the next time you say "you can't do something"
2.  Don't drink caipirinhas unless you are ready for the consequences.
3.  Love yourself no matter who you are.

Friday, March 15, 2013

1/27/2013 - Trinidad Adventures: Written by guest Blogger Tracy Giesbrecht


A couple of days before we would port in a specific city a crew member named Daniel would give a presentation on the best sites to see, activities to do and reasons why ‘this particular city’ is SO dangerous.  Our take-aways from his presentation on Trinidad included a must stop at the Steel Drum (pan) competition in Queens Park Savannah, the fact that they use TT$ for money and to hide all of your valuables.

Trinidad and Tobago is where the Steelpan was born.  A steeband consists of metal oil drums cut to different depths, with the flat top dived into sections which are hammered and tempered to give wide range of notes when struck with the rubber-knobbed end of a short stick.  Since 1963 there has been an annual steelband competition called Panorama and there are 4 categories of steelbands which consist of minimum and maximum number of players for each category.  The steelbands are graded on general performance, arrangement, tone and rhythm.


In order to make it to Queens Park Savannah in time for the competition we decided to take a cab from the center of the Port of Spain, Trinidad.  Jesus told the cab driver where we needed to go and he proceeded to tell us it would cost $20 US.  Jesus immediately crinkled his face and said with disbelief, “$20???”.  The cab driver spontaneously cut his price in half and said, “Fine, $10 US”. That sounded more reasonable to us.  When we arrived at the ‘Big Yard’, another name for Queens Park, we tried to buy tickets to Panorama and were delighted to find out the tickets only cost $2.50.  We didn’t realize they actually meant $250 TT’s.  At this point it took us at least 2 minutes to divide this number by 6 for the conversion to US dollars and agreed it wasn’t worth $41 US to see the competition.
Click here for a quick video of the steel drum band



Another couple from the cruise ship saw us walking away from the park and encouraged us to slip into the park on the right side where the steelbands were practicing for the competition.  The  sounds of the pans/drums were alluring and you could feel the beats pulsating into your core.  The local people were enjoying dancing, drinking and being friendly to us foreigners.  One gentleman who stood out to us was in his mid 50's and he had on a purple polyester suit, a top hat, white gloves and a large malt beverage inhand.  He took turns holding us closewhile we danced to the magnificent sounds in the air. (click here for a quick video of the man in purple)


Next, we decided it was time to eat.  We didn’t realize that so many places would be closed because it was a Sunday.  Luckily, a police woman suggested a local place which served up a tasty buffet.  Our quest for some Sunday Funday drinks was equally difficult to find.  Most of the locals said bars were closed on Sundays but eventually some pointed down a main road and said we wouldn’t want to go into the one bar that was open.  Of course that is exactly where we wanted to go.  At first blush, I must admit that the bar looked pretty sketch.  From what we could see it was very narrow, kind of dark and it had bars ‘on the bar’.  The locals inside gave us a look that would make most tourists flee the scene.  We agreed to take our chances and order some beverages.

Within 5 minutes we were escorted to the deserted back of the bar by an employee where there were fans blowing some much needed chilly air.  The half toothless employee wanted to know if we were having fun and enjoying the bar.  Once we cooled off we walked back to where the action was taking place and immersed ourselves into the scene.  The locals loved dancing with us and couldn’t get enough pictures of us with their tiny flip phones.  They were asking us about FaceBook (which we eventually understood its power of uniting the world on one social platform) and one gentleman was begging me to come back and visit.  At least this is what I gathered through his broken English. I told him that would be no problem as long as he paid for ALL of us to return.  He was so confused and a rather large girl who had taken a fancy to Jesus had to explain my answer to him.  We were so delighted with their acceptance and treatment of us that it was difficult to leave our latest Sunday Funday scene, however, the captain had instilled an unhealthy level of fear of being left behind in a foreign land.

In closing there were 3 life lessons during our time in Trinidad:

1.   Almost anything in life is negotiable.

2.  There is a fine line between following your gut and throwing caution to the wind.

3.  If given the chance people can pleasantly surprise you - so, give them the chance to do so!




Sunday, February 24, 2013

1/25/2013 Bonaire Island - Guest Blog written by JT Giesbrecht


We were told that Bonaire was known for its snorkeling and diving and assured it was the calmest of the ABC islands.  And that it was. 

A crew member named, Fay, offered to let us snorkel with him in the morning since he was familiar with the reefs in the area.  We gladly accepted his offer after hearing that a female crew member was cut pretty badly during her last snorkeling excursion.  One of the highlights of our day in Bonaire was being charged 'crew pricing' for our gear and water taxi to Klein islet.  Finally, being the youngest passengers has paid off, in the tune of $7 each!

Once we arrived at the islet we were told to put our stuff on the beach and walk down until we see a break in the reef.  We tasked Fay with this important step as it all looked like one giant reef to us.  The water was a bit rough and there was a steep 50 foot drop off once we crossed to the other side of the reef.  That is when the panic set in for Chalu.  She was doggy paddling with a look of terror on her face.  Fay calmly swam towards her and escorted her back to shore, all the while I'm intermittently yelling at her, "Keep your feet up!!” to help her avoid massive coral reef injuries to her legs.  I just assumed she would meet us back on the beach but that was not the case.  Ten minutes into our snorkeling I felt a firm tug on my leg and quickly turned around to see Chalu thoroughly enjoying herself in the water.  During the excursion we saw a large eel weaving its way through the corral and were graced by the presence of thousands of fish.  All the while I couldn't shake the voice of Ellen DeGeneres as Dory each time I saw a Blue Tang swim past us.

We decided to find some free Wi-Fi on land for the remainder of our time in Bonaire.  Wi-Fi is not easy to consistently find or use but it sure beats $.49-$.75 a minute on the boat when it does work.  Once we accomplished our goal we were ready to head back to the boat. By our watch it was 4:20pm and the all aboard was posted at 4:30.

As we were entering the ramp we heard the massive horn which is really just a loud mating call for all of the passengers to get the hell on the boat.  Since we had not yet seen the crew leave a port we decided to go to deck 6 to observe the action.  Little did we know that if you are not on the boat 20 minutes prior to all aboard they start looking for you?  This includes an intercom call across the whole ship, calls to your cabin, and the dreaded acquisition of your passport in preparation to hand it off to the port authority.

 An elderly gentleman was nowhere to be found and at 4:28 they had his passport in hand and we could hear their frustration that the port authority wasn't there yet for the hand off.  By 4:32 the handoff was complete which technically means that when the left passenger tries to get back on the ship he or she will instead be handed his or her passport and told to find their own way out of the country.  Fortunately for this older gentleman, he was able to catch them at the gate at 4:34 and was escorted back to the boat.  The onlookers erupted in cheering applause, which we later learned infuriated the cruise director and captain.

In closing there were 3 life lessons during our time in Bonaire:

1.  Say what you mean and set proper expectations.  If the boat really wants you to board at 4:10 instead of 4:30 then simply tell us so and don't treat folks like criminals until they are actually late.

2.  Being able to overcome fears in order to take advantage of adventure will typically lead to a happier life.

 3.  If someone assumes you're someone you're not, quickly consider the pros and cons of taking on this identity.

Friday, February 22, 2013

1/24/2013 - Curaçao Island

Our next stop was Curaçao (pronounced [koo-r-uh-sou]), which represents the “C” in the ABC Islands.  The island was founded in 1499 by the Dutch and given the name “Curaçao”, which means “heart” in Portuguese. The Island is world renowned for its orange liqueur by the same name. Until I visited this fair island, I neither knew that the blue-colored liqueur was actually orange-flavored nor the correct pronunciation of Curaçao (frequently referring to the sweet liquid as blue [ka-rawk-co]).


Upon arrival to Curaçao the first thing you notice are the many colorful Dutch style buildings lining the water way.  Like Aruba, this island is rich with culture, language and architecture.  Curaçao is the largest most populous of the three islands we visited and the city of Willemstad reminds me of a much smaller Amsterdam. We toured the island to see the unique culture, lush vegetation as well as the lengthy and complicated history involving a once substantial Jewish population.
One of the most abundant wildlife in Curaçao  are the Iguanas, which are small reptiles that live in trees and also prevalent throughout South America. You can see Iguanas running along the streets and rural pathways.On a stop during the tour, a local was selling Iguana soup from a crockpot outside a gift shop.
I couldn’t resist (when in Rome and all) and was horrified when I went to take my first bite and noticed that the each piece had a slimy reptilian skin still attached.  I thought I was eating a piece of the Queen reptile in the V television series. (I know I am dating myself. However, if you knew what I am talking about then you are old too).  Nevertheless, I sucked it up figurative and literally and got my head in the game.  After a mental battle with the consistency, I concurred with the locals that Iguana does in fact taste a bit like chicken.After our tour, we searched for Wi-Fi, had a late lunch at a cute little sidewalk café and then sat along the waterway sipping cocktails well into the night.  The area was lively at night with bands playing Latin tunes and the locals chatting and celebrating over cold beer.  Sea water feeds a water way through downtown Willemstad and a pedestrian bridge crosses to allow the locals and tourist to go to and fro.  The interesting thingabout the bridge is that it is motorized by a boat propeller and can be moved toan open or shut position allowing boats and ships to pass through the waterwayand access the ship dock.  Although Curaçao was mostly uneventful, I did find meaning in the motorized bridge. In life, the land of Curaçao represents your heart.  Similar to the pedestrian bridge, your heart will get walked on by people in a hurry to go to and fro; however, one must be flexible to open your gate and allow magnificent vessels big and small to pass through and gain access.

Thursday, February 14, 2013

1/23/2013 Aruba Island & The odd couple

Next stop was the ABC Islands.  Aruba was the first stop of the three Islands we visited of the six that make up Dutch Antillean.  Aruba’s history is quite intriguing. The first settlers derived from Venezuela more than 4500 years ago.  Later another group known as the “Caiquetios” arrived 1000 years later to populate the island.  In 1499 the Spanish laid claim, but ignored Aruba for nearly 16 years until the entire population of natives where transported to Santo Domingo (now known as Haiti and the Dominican Republic) to work as slaves. Shortly after the Dutch gain dominance and have maintained control to this day with the exception of a very short English rule in the 19th century.
                           
This is my third time in Aruba. The island itself is very aired and the terrain reminds me of Arizona. The island has an interesting mix of people and cultures including Pilipino, Chinese, Spanish and Dutch. Although all the Arubans speak English, visitors to the island will frequently hear a local language known as Papiamento. Papiamento is a creole language derived from African dialects and either Portuguese or Spanish, with some influences from Amerindians, English, and Dutch.

Again, we walked the island and looked for sites. Mostly, we met random Arubans and proceeded to ham.  We hung out at the gorgeous beaches and stopped to window shop here and there.
My favorite stop was a place called the “Local Store”, which was a bar with free wifi and local drinks.  I partook of the local snacks Pastechis (ham and cheese turnover) and Croquettes (similar to a large eggroll filled with a mystery meat) and sipped rum and coke. The bar tenders where young and cute just like we like them.  We snapped a few photos and later danced toSpanish music in the upper bar.

I think the most interesting things were actually happening on the ship, which leads me to my second couple to highlight, Basil and Dan.  Basil and Dan are a petite Jewish couple from Manchester England.  Tracy and I met Basil while chatting with other guest in the atrium of the ship. Somehow, we had broached the subject of booty sizes in Brazil. During that conversation, one of the guests mentioned a report of women getting ripped off and poisoned by a scammer that was injecting a magical plumping elixir into their derrières, which turned out to be “fix a flat”.  Upon over hearing this report as she walked past, Basil was taken aback, inviting herself into the conversation to warn in her proper, slow and deliberate English accent, “If your bottom is too large then eat less. If it is too small, well then, learn to live with it.” From that point on Basil was an immediate favorite of the clams. At seventy years plus, Basil is no more than five foot tall with a sturdy frame, short grey hair, a pleasant round face and a forever pensive look as if she is constantly contemplating solutions to all the world’s problems. Basil was easy to chat with, because she did most of the talking and was always generous with advice. Although she was quite loquacious, her smile, warmth and English practicality were irresistible.

Dan, Basil’s husband for the last forty-six years, turns out to be quite different in disposition.  Dan stands less than five foot six inches and looks twenty years younger than his staggering age of eighty-six. Dan is all about efficiency and amazingly high-tech for his age. Not only does he have a functioning Ipad, he also writes e-books on how to stay fit and youthful as a senior in his ample spare time. He is an avid swimmer and has a speedo for every mood.  Dan frequently interrupted conversations and would politely offer to leave Basil “to chat with her new friends” if the venture or conversation extended beyond his short attention span.    

Basil and Dan recently moved back to the eastern part of London to reconnect with their roots. Basil gave me detailed stories of how she and Dan had met nearly 5 decades ago through a family match maker.  She had been married once before and didn’t want to go the tradition route of meeting men. Dan shared his recollection of riding in a horse-drawn taxi at the age of four and tales of his journeys to America on a merchant navy ship after World War II. According to Dan, the ship was transporting, “pregnant English Gals that had married ‘Yanks’ during the war. Of which, most returned to Brittan after being stood-up by their new American husbands.” Dan also took great pleasure in teaching me and Tracy a few proper English terms such as “Rubbish” and “inverted commas” (to mean air quotes) mixed with a bit of Cockney slang like using apples as a euphemism for stairs.

The most interesting tidbit I gathered from Dan and Basil was their current living arrangement. After moving back to London and selling a summer flat on Tenerife Island (part of the Spanish Canary Islands off the northwest coast of Africa), they decided to move to a retirement apartment building.  This by itself is not interesting; however, in an effort to fully enjoy their surroundings, they decided to live in separate apartments across the hallway from one another. Basil wakes up late and enjoys a leisurely breakfast and read of the paper. Differently, Dan often rises early and takes a swim and then has a nap after lunch. Basil reported that they typically meet for a nightly supper at her slightly larger flat unless Dan is distracted by a football match, whereas, he has to find his own dinner between goals.  According to Basil, the two years of this arrangement have worked well allowing them to pursue their own interest.  Although Dan and Basil have an atypical situation, I see their true affection shine through when Dan gloats about how their children adore Basil and how the biggest joy in life is finding the right partner. I have always said the key to long successful marriage was separate rooms, little did I know it was separate flats!